*if your pattern is not reversed you must put it face down on your light box and trace the applique fusible from the back. My favorite fusible web is Lite Steam A Seam 2 (there is a regular Steam a Seam 2 that is much heavier), it is double stick fusible web and very light weight, it is lighter weight than light Heat and Bond.
*I do not feel the need to window - leaving just ¼ inch of fusible on the inside edge of the applique shape - when I use the Lite Steam A Seam 2 (SAS2 from here on in this post)- it is that light weight that it does not really add bulk to the applique pieces. I do however window so I can use the inside of some large pieces for other applique shapes-SAS2 is expensive and it helps to use those spaces.
*Multiple layer applique shapes I build (iron the shapes together) on an applique pressing sheet and then move to the background fabric.

*I pin my background fabric to the pattern and place it back on the light box to start adding the applique pieces to the block.
*Because SAS2 is double stick fusible it allow the pieces to be moved around but has the applique pieces stay where placed until the final pressing with a hot iron. This allows me to hang up a block and look at it from a distance and make sure I like all of the fabrics I have chosen for the block. I like to pin blocks to a quilt that hangs in my great room and see the block in the normal light of my home.
* I frequently spray starch my assembled block before I start blanket stitching, it gives it a little body and cuts down on little eyelash fraying (which can be trimmed with a fine scissors or even a fingernail clipper).
Happy Stitching
Thanks, it is fun to see how others work. I usually use Heat and Bond light but tried SAS2 when working on a Michelle Hill pattern. As you say it is expensive but really worth it on some projects. Thanks for the starching tip, I will try that next time!
ReplyDeleteWow, Cheri, you do amazing work.
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